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Malay Road Trip &
Taman Negara Jungle Hike - October 2004
Once
we decided for forgo the Super/Extra nice bus options overnight
to Kuala Lumpur and rent our Proton things happened pretty fast.
The rental car company actually delivered the Proton to our
place at the Stardust Guesthouse and sent along a full team
of staff to show us all the features of our stainless steel
colored road warrior.
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First rule,
even more important than signing the collision insurance waiver:
No Durians (this sign was boldly stuck to the glove compartment).
Enforcement of this rule was pretty strict in fact, and just
a whiff of the garbage pit smell that the durian fruit gives
off would result in an extra day's chargin's by the folks at
Kasina Rent-A-Car. Steve, Alex and I wondered if the smell we
might leave in the car after a few days in the jungle might
be mistaken for a breach of the "no durians" policy.
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Steve
and Alex are a good navigating team.
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As
we pulled out of Penang we were surrounded by a motorcycle gang
with Runaway Ralph style ping pong ball helmets.
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The
Proton seemed to handle the open road with gusto.
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To
reach the Taman Negara we had to drive a few hours south towards
Kuala Lumpur, then take a secondary road east, and finally north
to Jerantut.
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For
dinner we pulled off the highway at a rest stop that had a few
restaurants. Alex and I chose this dish that we thought was
chicken, but it turned out to be something really tough with
the consistency of cartilage. Not too tasty!
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We
noticed this crazy old man as we pulled out of the rest stop.
He was poised to charge out into the highway off ramp traffic
on a little girl's bike!
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We
left the Proton behind in Jerantut, and caught a river taxi
upstream from the Kuala Tembeling jetty for three hours to tiny
settlement of Kuala Tahan and the Taman Negara jungle park.
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Along
the way we passed a few other river taxis returning back to
Kuala Tembeling.
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Maybe
it was because our boat was a little overloaded, but about halfway
in to the trip we started taking on water. By the time our captain
noticed it, the water was pretty high and people were perched
on the tops of their seats making the boat really wobbly. We
pulled in to shore and started bailing away.
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Finally
we pulled in to the floating restaurant of Kuala Tahan on the
banks of the river across from the Taman Negara rainforest.
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As
soon as we arrived, we met one of the jungle guides who was
known as "Crazy Like Monkey?". I don't think I've
met too many monkeys who play with snakes and Crazy Like delivered
us a rambling and self serving speech to try and drum up business
for his guide service.
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Surprisingly
the internet has made it out to Kuala Tahan.
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After
checking out the various options for places to stay, we went
with one of the cabins run by the Taman Negara Park and left
Crazy Like Monkey on the other side of the river in Kuala Tahan.
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We
shared the cabin with this brown beady-eyed bat.
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Beware
Monkeys! Speaking of monkeys, some of the monkeys from the jungle
seemed to prefer hanging out around the cabins run by the park.
In fact, we noticed a few large poops left on one of the chairs
in our cabin. At first we couldn't figure out what had left
them behind, but then we noticed a sizeable rip in the screen
of our room left by the monkeys. We pictured them having a tea
party in the middle of our room when nobody was watching.
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On
this particular evening, the monkeys chose to invade somebody
else's cabin. We discovered a pack of about ten of them lounging
on the porch, chattering in the bushes, and one stretched out
on the roof, while the fearful occupants peered from the windows
to see if the monkeys were still there. They were!
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Monkey
sightings became a daily occurrence but we never caught them
having their imagined tea party at our place.
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This
little monkey was tearing apart the carefully manicured flower
bed cultivated by the park staff.
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The
food at the restaurant near the park was really good.
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We filled up
on big entrées before heading out into the jungle.
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Our
first trip into the jungle was just a day hike on a loop a few
miles from our cabin.
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Along
the trail was the Taman Negara Canopy Walk, a suspension bridge
hanging about 60 feet above the jungle floor.
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From
the Canopy Walk we could see the creatures that lived high up
in the trees such as these giant golden squirrels (not sure
if that's the real name of the species, but that's what they
looked like!).
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The
Canopy Walk was a great place for some unique photos. Photo
by Steve
Iams.
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Each
span of the Canopy Walk seemed to go for about twenty or thirty
yards between the trees.
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At
a few points along the Canopy Walk the river was visible through
the trees.
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The
ants in the Taman Negara jungle are a lot more organized than
the average ant I've seen in the U.S.. These ants formed long
and orderly lines as they methodically did whatever they were
doing.
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The
line of ants extended quite a distance, and it was tough to
tell exactly where they were going.
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Alex
introduced an impromptu obstacle and chaos ensued among the
ranks.
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The
jungle had a lot more insects than just the ants. This brightly
colored centipede would probably leave a nasty bite if you gave
it a chance.
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The
further we traveled into the jungle the more we realized that
the jungle was well equipped to defend itself from outsiders
like us.
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The
jungle trees were often covered in moss and vines and towered
above the forest floor to reach the sunlight beyond the impenetrable
jungle canopy.
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Most
of the trees had extensive and sturdy looking buttress roots.
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Maybe
inspired after seeing all the monkeys, Steve caught a swing
on these jungle vines.
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The final leg of our Southeast Asian
adventure was an overnight jungle trek through the Taman
Negara Rainforest in Malaysia. The over ten mile slog
through the rainforest was torturous as we endured drenching
downpours, jungle heat, hordes of blood sucking leeches,
sandals that failed at the worst possible moment, and
a fitful night of sleep on the guano covered stone floor
of a jungle cave. But as soon as we were out of the
woods I think we all considered it one of the best things
we had done on the entire trip. (Click
here to see the photo essay--40 photos) |
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