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Taman Negara Overnight
Jungle Trek - October 2004
After
getting a taste of the Taman Negara on the afternoon hike near
our cabin, Steve, Alex and I decided to hire a guide and explore
the more remote regions of the jungle.
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Our
boat sat pretty low in the water so that when we charged through
these rapids it felt like it wouldn't take much to capsize us.
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This
boatload of aboriginal native people from the jungle charged
right by us though.
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Shareef,
our guide took a nap during the trip upstream.
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Shareef
gave us a quick introduction to the basics of the jungle as
we started our ten mile overnight trek.
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I
think we all realized quickly how different hiking in the jungle
is compared with something we were familiar with such as the
Appalachian Trail. You might be able cover ten miles on the
AT over a diligent afternoon's hike, but we found that after
a few hours of slogging up and down the steep, muddy terrain
of the Taman Negara we had only covered a kilometer or two.
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Only
a short while into the hike, a torrential downpour opened up
out of the sky. Shareef tried to help us keep our packs dry
by attaching large jungle leaves to the outside.
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This
wasn't going to be quite as easy as we all expected it to be.
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Within
a few minutes we were soaked to the skin, but at least the jungle
heat kept us from getting cold at all.
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It's
crazy to think that we originally considered just going without
the guide and doing the trip by ourselves.
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Not
long after we began hiking, we all noticed that our feet were
covered in leeches like this one. the leeches would lie in wait
on the jungle floor, then stand up and wave wildly back and
forth when they sensed the vibrations of our footsteps approaching.
The leeches were quite successful at catching a hold of us as
we walked by.
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Alex
found this vine that turned out to be kind of a jungle gong
against the tree. Note the muddy stream of rainwater running
down the middle of the trail.
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The vine rang
out a hollow, resounding note when it hit the tree.
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Shareef
scolded us for stopping every five minutes or so to pick the
leeches from our feet. Alex had a few go through his socks inside
his boot.
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A
few hours into the jungle trek, Steve's Tevas that had served
him well all over Nepal gave out and the straps broke.
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Shareef
attempted to salvage Steve's Tevas by operating on them with
his knife, but there was no hope for them. Luckily Shareef had
a spare pair of sandals, but they were several sizes too small
for Steve's feet.
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We
pressed on towards our camp for the night, crossing streams
swollen from the non-stop rain.
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Some
of the trees deep in the jungle were completely covered with
thick, branching vines.
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Alex
found this huge porcupine quill along the trail, luckily we
didn't encounter the owner.
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As
we neared our camping spot we found this abandoned Aboriginal
settlement, Shareef said that the tribes still live in the jungle
as they have for eons. They build temporary settlements from
the bamboo and palm fronds, then move on to a better spot depending
on the seasons. I imagine the indigenous people are probably
a little less worried about the leeches than we were.
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As
we neared our campsite and the end of the trail for the day,
I think we all looked forward to changing into some dry (or
more dry) clothes.
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We
camped out in a huge cave that had a large opening looking out
into the tree tops. Inside the cave was like a cathedral, with
a ceiling that looked to be about 70 feet high and extended
far into the earth. Shareef told us that elephants use the cave
as a temporary shelter sometimes, and sure enough we could see
their enormous footprints in a few spots in the cave. We hoped
that they wouldn't choose to come visit us during the night.
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Shareef
began preparing an awesome vegetable curry for dinner. You can
see Alex in the background exploring the cave with his headlamp.
Before we went to sleep on the floor of the cave, Shareef built
a fire to keep the jungle tigers at bay.
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After
dinner we felt like we had earned a rest. Photo by Alex
Iams.
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The
next morning woke up early, and a feeble light made it through
the thick jungle canopy. We needed to be back in time to catch
the last boat in the afternoon back to Jerantut to pick up the
Proton and arrive in Kuala Lumpur in time for our flights home.
I don't think any of us slept too well in the cave because of
the weird jungle sounds that woke us up throughout the night.
Shareef didn't seem to have any problems sleeping through the
noises of the night creatures and snored away contentedly.
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We
passed this unusual looking jungle flower along the trail.
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Here
you can see one of the jungle leeches in its attack position,
standing on the rainforest floor blindly searching for its next
victim (us).
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Leech
breaks were just as common on Day 2 as they were for Day 1.
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The
same soldier like rows of ants that we had seen near our cabin
were also deep in the jungle as well.
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Sometimes
we got lucky and found a fallen tree to get over the many stream
crossings.
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Near
the end of the jungle trek, we stopped to take a break inside
this hide that people will stay in overnight to watch the jungle
animals come out at night. It certainly was more plush than
the cave.
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When
Alex took off his boots to check for leeches, he noticed these
three that had not yet gotten inside to feast on his ankles.
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As
we neared the edge of the rainforest, more and more sunlight
streamed down to the jungle floor.
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Finally
we came out into the clearing where we were to meet our boat
back to the relative civilization of Kuala Tahan and on to Kuala
Lumpur.
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It
was really nice to stretch out my leech-ridden feet in the afternoon
sun for the trip down river.
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Back
in Kuala Tahan we said farewell to our new friend Shareef and
caught the boat back to Jerantut.
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As
we drove back to Kuala Lumpur, we stopped to eat at what Alex
appropriately named: McDonald's International Airport.
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An
evil looking Ronald McDonald was at the entrance of McDonald's
International Airport to urge us to pick up some Ringgit McSavers.
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By
the time we parked the Proton in a Kuala Lumpur parking lot
it was about 11 pm, and I think I was especially showing some
road weariness as we toasted the trip over a few Tiger beers.
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The
next morning we fired up the Proton to take us to the KL airport
and out of Malaysia.
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Sometimes things that aren't supposed
to be funny turn out to be hilarious. Maybe it is the
neighbor who builds a 30 foot tall mural of himself
in front of his house completely obscuring his otherwise
nice view, the mall mannequin that refuses to conform,
or the products that have either unfortunate names or
bewildering advertising campaigns. (Click
here to see the photo essay--44 photos) |
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