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Tagbilaran Fiesta and
Fair - May 2004
At
sunrise, the Ramos family prepared the lechon pig for
the roasting, it was raised especially for the occasion.
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The
Ramos family hosted Daniel Simon during our Peace Corps training.
The sack of rice under Daniel's foot weighs about 60 pounds
and was cooked for all the visitors who came to the Ramos' house
for fiesta.
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Aside from
the lechon and tons of food, fiesta also about having a few
drinks with friends and family. These guys are participating
in a social drinking circle.
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The
main dining table in the kitchen was the center of the fiesta
universe at the Ramos house. For the entire weekend, it was
always full of freshly prepared food.
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The
lechon is served! This pig was roasted all morning
over an open fire on a bamboo spit while stuffed with a secret
mixture of herbs to bring out the roast pig flavor. The skin
is the most popular part, and it cracks off in caramel colored
shards.
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Everyone
wants to be first in line for the pickin's on the lechon
as the most prized parts are quickly gleaned away by the fiesta
goers.
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But
latecomers don't need to worry, the lechon is not all there
is to eat. Dishes made from literally every part of the pig
fill the table for everyone to eat.
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Once
the skin was picked off the lechon pig, the roast meat
underneath filled the plates. It's a pretty tough place to be
a vegetarian, and if you come to a house during fiesta and don't
eat anything it is considered an insult.
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The
main street of Tagbilaran, Carlos P. Garcia Avenue was festooned
with San Miguel beer ribbons and flags. The streets were empty
because everyone in town was too full to move.
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Usually
during fiesta it is customary to visit several houses, so after
having fiesta at the Ramos' house, we went to fiesta at Kathleen
Campbell's host family house. To get there, we had to pile in
to this jeepney packed like lechons ourselves.
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Kathleen's
host family lives on the water, and the sunset at the end of
fiesta day in Tagbilaran was a good one.
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Fiesta
attracts hungry Peace Corps volunteers from all over the country.
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After the fiesta we went
to the Tagbilaran carnival. I really wish I had stopped
to see the El Pinoy Spellbound show.
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Some things
like a carousel are standard for carnivals all over the world.
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So
is getting ripped off by games to win junky stuff. Here I'm
hurling a ball uselessly at an armored stack of blocks while
trying to win something I don't really want. It turned out that
the blocks were held down by magnets, so much for having a chance
to win.
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Popcorn
was five pesos a bag (nine cents).
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Kids
start gambling early here.
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I
think this might have been the most rickety ferris wheel I've
ever seen, and the carny running it was even scarier than the
ones in America.
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The "Stunt
from Bangkok Thailand" show was the highlight for me. That
grim reaper painted on the side of the sign isn't just for dramatic
effect, the possibility of a disaster was hanging by a few splinters
and creaky seams in this rickety cylinder. While the crowd watched
from the narrow walkway around the edge, the Bangkok Thailand
daredevil rode a motorcycle as fast as he could around the wall
of the cylinder. From the outside it was rocking back and forth
like a bucket full of crazed chimps chasing each other around
inside.
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When the Bangkok
Thailand daredevil finally wobbled out still dizzy from the
last performance fifteen minutes earlier he flashed the "I'm
#1" sign and dramatically kick started his hog.
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The sound from
the motorcycle was deafening in the small space of the round
room, like trash can full of firecrackers going off under your
pillow. The Bangkok Thailand daredevil was going so fast he
blurred out like an impressionist painting on wall of the cylinder.
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I snapped this shot right
as the Bangkok Thailand daredevil passed below my
perch on the walkway, and the bike spun perpendicular
to the walls perilously.
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Ten minutes into the show,
the Bangkok Thailand daredevil was showing no signs
of dizziness and terrified the crowd by driving close
to the edge of the cylinder. Meanwhile, a rooster
placidly pecked away at the dirt floor of the cylinder.
I'm still not sure whether the rooster was a prop
for dramatic effect or whether he just wandered inside
the show.
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Finally
the chainsaw buzzing of the motorcycle engine quieted and the
Bangkok Thailand daredevil coasted to a shaky stop. I posed
with him during his fifteen minute break between shows, and
when I left the cylinder I said the only thai word that I can
still remember from my trip to Thailand in 2001. Korp kun krap:
thank you.
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For most Peace Corps volunteers,
a trip to Manila is something to look forward to (because
of the food) and something to get over with (because
Manila is not a really pleasant place). Coming from
a small city like Dumaguete where I feel like I know
a lot of people, becoming a regular nobody in Manila
can be a shock sometimes. Even so, I always look forward
to hamburgers, pizza and corn dogs that come with a
trip to the big city. (Click
here to see the photo essay--30 photos) |
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