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Siquijor Island Witch Doctor & Holy Week celebrations
- March 2005
This fisherman sailed
by in a small handmade boat just as the sun set behind
the island of Negros.
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This is a photo of a kid
on a bike going by Kyle and Melissa's nipa house on
Siquijor Island near Larena.
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The next morning (Good
Friday) we woke up early to go climb one of the mountains
on Siquijor to see the stations of the cross they
have there. These goldfish were for sale near the
beginning of the trail, though I'm not sure why!
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Holy Week is one of the
huge nationwide holidays in the Philippines, and on
Good Friday this large crowd turned out to come visit
the stations of the cross.
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The famous Balete tree
of Siquijor is several hundred years old.
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Tendril-like roots extend
down from the Balete tree to form an eerie canopy
for visitors to walk through. Due to the island's
supernatural influences, the tree is believed to be
haunted.
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After seeing the Balete
Tree up close, I can see why the people think it's
full of ghosts; it feels like the roots are going
to ensnare you as you walk through to the other side.
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After passing safely through
the tunnel of stringy roots, I impersonated one of
the Balete ghosts.
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Every year one of the
Siquijor Islanders plays the part of Jesus and walks
between the stations with this large wooden cross,
praying at each stop.
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Here's one of the Stations
of the Cross near the top of the mountain.
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A few minutes after we
arrived at the top of the mountain to have a light
lunch, the Jesus figure came along on the path.
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The top of the mountain
had three crosses to complete the stations of the
cross.
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After visiting the Stations
of the Cross, we visited one of Siquijor's famous
Shaman's with Fulbright Scholar Rosanna
Brillantes-Meyer and her husband John. Rosanna
spent a year on Siquijor working on a documentary
film about the shamanistic healing practices still
in use on the island. To read more about her documentary
project, you should visit
her website, it's great! At the entrance to the
Shaman's house, this really creepy dog was keeping
watch. It looked a little bit like a werewolf to me,
but maybe this is appropriate for the dog of a man
who practices sometimes obscure magic?
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Once inside the Shaman's
house, we had to decide what kind of procedure we
wanted him to perform on us. Initially, Melissa Rickert
asked him if he could perform a fertility spell since
she and Kyle are hoping to have a child after their
Peace Corps service. I was surprised and more than
a little impressed when he said he didn't know how
to do that spell since he could have done literally
anything and we would have paid him his tribute anyway.
Instead, I volunteered to have a healing massage done.
I didn't really have anything to be healed, I just
didn't want to drink one of the homemade potions he
had made--some of them apparently composed of an exhumed
corpse! Photo by Erica Chan
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Maybe he was looking for
the phantom source of my maladies, but at times the
healing was a bit painful! Photo by Erica Chan
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The kids in the house
had probably seen procedures like this performed many
times before. Photo by Erica Chan
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After poking and prodding
me for a few minutes, the Shaman uncorked an aromatic
bottle of oil and used it to rub into my back. It
smelled mostly like coconut oil, no exhumed corpses
mixed in for "flavoring". Photo by Erica
Chan
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By the end, it felt more
like a regular massage, and really did make me feel
better. Photo by Erica Chan
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John Meyer, Melissa and
Erica waited outside for the magic to be finished.
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This weathered goat was
guarding the path from Kyle and Melissa's house the
next morning when I left to go back to Dumaguete.
I only half jokingly thought that maybe this aged
fellow maybe had some Shaman stories of his own.
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After a visit to the Balicasag Marine
Sanctuary in Bohol, Kris and Kristen came over to Dumaguete
to see Apo Island's famous marine sanctuary. Their friend
Emily from back home was traveling through SE Asia,
so she met up with us in Dumaguete the morning that
we left for Apo. Also Pam from my Peace Corps batch
came over as well with her mom, sister and Alex from
the batch that arrived a year before ours. (Click
here to see the photo essay--35 photos) |
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