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Sabang & Underground River - February 2005
After catching the small
plane in to El Nido, Preston and I took the 8
to 14 hour "dust bus" to Puerto Princesa,
though we hopped off in Sabang to check out the Underground
River there.
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Just as we were preparing
to motor out of El Nido, this pack of tricycles appeared.
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Out poured what looked
like a student travel group who posed for a group
photo before getting on the bus.
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While the students were
loading their luggage on to the dust bus, Kris and
Kristen jogged by on their morning run.
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Since there is more room
to stretch your legs on the upper deck, Preston and
I rode on the roof of the bus for the first part of
the trip out of El Nido. The main downside to this
is that if you are behind another bus on the dirt
road, the dust can be absolutely suffocating. In this
photo though, the skies were clear, and the only worry
was sunburn.
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The conductor of the bus
chose to ride the roof like a surf board, we stayed
at the back where there was a low bench to sit on.
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A few other people were
on the roof with us, in this shot you can see the
infamous cloud of dust billowing behind the bus as
it sped along the dirt road.
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The open dirt road just
waiting to be turned into a maelstrom of swirling
dust by the speeding bus.
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Once we hit the main paved
roads and before the bus started to really move fast,
we climbed down from the roof and got a seat inside.
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It may be hard to spot
the accumulated dust in this photo, but it's there.
My hair felt like steel wool from the grittiness.
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On the narrow streets
of Taytay, this jeepney barely squeezed by the oversized
dust bus.
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After about eight hours
on the bus, we hopped off at the town of Salvacion
and luckily caught the last jeepney to Sabang and
the Underground River for the day. The only down side
was that the inside of the jeep was full so we had
to ride on the roof again. It wasn't dusty though
and the views on the hour long ride to Sabang were
spectacular.
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The closer we got to Sabang,
the more dramatic limestone outcrops (like this one
pictured here) we could see from the jeepney.
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We also spotted this roadside
chariot improvised with a caribou and two bamboo sticks.
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Evidently the tide comes
at least up to this rock.
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This little saltwater
stream was flowing with the outgoing tide.
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The pattern made by the
small dunes in the early morning sun caught my eye.
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After breakfast Preston
and I hiked via the jungle trail to the Underground
River. On the trail we spotted this tree with roots
that stretch from the branches above and attached
themselves to the ground.
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The jungle hike was pretty
hot, but luckily was only about three or four miles
to reach the Underground River.
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At the entrance to the
trail was this sign, I need to ask which Peace Corps
volunteer was involved with this project.
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This is the first UNESCO
World Heritage site that I've been to that required
a hard hat.
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Our guide paddled the
bangka boat into the opening of the cave, and then
began to chatter away incessantly about his observations
of what the rock formations looked like to him.
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The rock formations were
indeed awesome, but I wish the guide would have let
us enjoy the surroundings in quiet. Instead, we were
treated to visual puns such as "Yes, here we
have a celebrity rock--yes, it is Sharon Stone!!!"
Hardy-har-har!
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Even in the dimly lit
interior of the underground river our guide, Chatty
McChattin's, pointed out which rocks looked like dogs,
chickens, and various religious relics to him. At
the periphery of the light we could see literally
thousands of bats flitting around and screeching in
their eerie voices.
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It was possible to hear
the droning memorized Underground River tour observations
coming even from this passing boat. Hopefully they
will improve the quality of the guide training for
this site, it really takes away from the impact of
the natural beauty.
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Finally the tour was over,
and I had even seen a rock that supposedly resembled
"The Bart Simpson."
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This may have been the
first tour that I've been on where I didn't learn
anything about the place I was visiting.
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Waiting at the boat landing
for the return trip to Sabang was a pack of scavenging
monkeys. Don't pull out that bag of Skittles in front
of this rapscallion!
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Joining the marauding
monkeys were a few of these paleolithic looking monitor
lizards. They are rare in the Philippines now because
people like to eat them. I haven't eaten one yet,
though if this fellow ate my bag of imported Cheetos
I might find reason enough to roast him. Actually,
they are endangered, so I definitely wouldn't eat
one. They also don't look very good to eat in the
first place.
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Unfortunately our jeepney
that was scheduled to take us back to Puerto Princesa
broke down and we had to hire this bus to take us
in to town in time to catch our flight to Cebu the
next morning.
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Luckily we decided to
walk back from the Underground River and didn't pay
the exorbitant boat fee so we had enough money to
pay for the exorbitant bus fee. You see, there are
not many ATM machines on Palawan, and between us Preston
and I had about a little under $20 in cash which barely
covered the trip in to Puerto.
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Puerto Princesa is a great
town, and like most places, has its own unique tricycle
design.
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For our last dinner in
Palawan we tried out the highly recommended Kalui
Restaurant. Preston liked it so much he even paid
the whole tab for the meal. Thanks brah!
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Also highly recommended
was Casa Linda Inn, where we stayed the night in Puerto.
We even ran into the Belgian family who were our neighbors
at our Dara Fernandez bungalow in El Nido. Small world.
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After leaving Palawan, Preston and
I headed back to my Peace Corps site in Dumaguete. It
was fun to show him around some of the highlights of
the town here since he's the first family visitor, and
I had to make sure his report back home was good. We
hit most of the highlights, even if we rushed a few
of them a the end of his visit here. (Click
here to see the photo essay--24 photos) |
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