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Overland to Nong Khiew,
Laos and stay at Sunset Guest House - October 2004
Since
we struck out in our attempt to catch a river
taxi up the Mekong for the three hour trip to Nong Khiew
because there weren't enough other people to split the boat
fee, Steve and I ended up catching the bus. When we first arrived
at the bus station, I was worried that we were going to be cramped
on this industrial style transport for three hours.
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Our bus turned out to
be the pretty standard white box type model in this
photo. Luckily we got there early, because the seats
filled up really quickly on the bus.
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Not
sure if they meant to have a James Bond reference on the license
plate of the bus. I guess James Bond is Double O Seven, but
Triple O Seven in Laos drives a blocky white bus instead of
an Aston Martin. Eat our dust, Pierce Brosnan!
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Although
the seats were spaced really close together inside the bus,
it felt like there was at least a little open space near the
front.
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This fellow
seemed pretty interested to see what kind of score Steve was
getting on the Travel Yahtzee. So far we've carried that game
over three continents, and the competition is fierce to roll
the highest score.
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We
passed over a bridge and caught another glimpse of the Mekong
from the window of the speeding bus.
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After
about an hour or two of driving, our bus stopped at a small
restaurant for a pre-arranged rest stop. I think most people
were surprised to find this large catfish unceremoniously flopped
on the algae covered floor.
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I
guess if I were going to eat this monster, I'd probably store
it somewhere a little bit cleaner, but oh well. We were told
that the catfish in the Mekong grow up to nine feet long, so
this specimen is just a baby compared to the behemoths that
lurk in the muddy depths.
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To
get some relief from the cloistered innards of the bus, I stuck
my head out the window for a little while.
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We
arrived in Nong Khiew right on time. Some of the other folks
who made the trip stepped off with the bus with a "so this
is it?" reaction to the rustic surroundings while their
bags were stacked for them on the packed yellow colored earth.
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Steve
travels a lot lighter than that group in the above photo.
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They
had peppers in Nong Khiew too.
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We
picked the Sunset Guest House as our place to stay in Nong Khiew.
The Sunset is run by a nice family, and although the rooms are
small and pretty plain, they are a deal at $2 a night, and the
food is excellent.
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Speaking of the food,
our first stop was the restaurant which is situated
on a nice deck overlooking the Nam Ou River. Since
we hadn't really eaten anything all day at it was
2 in the afternoon when we arrived, we ordered quickly.
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Steve
got a huge bowl of noodles that looked really good. I went with
ginger chicken, which became one of my favorite dishes while
staying at the Sunset.
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The
main room in the Sunset is filled with these cushions laid out
for reading or just relaxing.
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The
sun sets quickly behind the steep limestone mountains surrounding
the Sunset Guest House. It didn't take long for the stars to
appear in the darkening night sky above the restaurant.
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A
copy of Lonely
Planet's Laos guide and a cold bottle of beer Lao were perfect
for planning the next day.
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After
planning the next leg of the trip, it was time for some more
eats from the Sunset's restaurant. The large bowl is full of
chicken curry, and I think there is another bowl of chicken
curry in the background too.
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The
Sunset had an internet connection that some people tried out
at night. I attempted to check my e-mail there, but it turned
out to be the slowest connection I've ever come across while
traveling so I gave up.
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Our
$2 a night room was comfortable and had a wall of thatched bamboo.
The beds were pretty much mattresses on the floor, but comfortable
nonetheless. In this photo I'm sporting the Hobbit pants that
I picked up at the Luang Prabang
night market. The Hobbit pants are quite comfortable, but
I've found it hard to wear them outside of Laos because they
look a little weird. Photo by Steve
Iams.
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An
early morning view from the window of our room at the Sunset
Guest House.
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There
are only a few rooms at the Sunset, and judging by the spaces
between the doors, all the rooms were about the size of ours.
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Eating breakfast out on
the deck of the restaurant was quite nice because
of the towering limestone mountains in the background
and the Nam Ou River flowing by in the valley.
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This
bird of paradise flower was growing right outside the bathroom
at the Guesthouse.
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The
small baby of the owner got a lot of attention from the guests.
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In
the early morning, fog seemed to collect in the valley between
the mountains and hang above the river giving it a spooky look.
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Just like Luang Prabang, Nong Khiew
is a river town that lives in step with the Nam Ou River.
Although Nong Khiew is less developed, plenty of options
are available to keep you from getting lazy. A short
hike from the Sunset Guesthouse, we found steep limestone
mountains towering dramatically beside iridescent green
rice paddies and a hard to reach cave that was a refuge
for people trying to escape the ravages of the war torn
country. (Click
here to see the photo essay--20 photos) |
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