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Around Luang Prabang,
Laos - October 2004
I
thought it was a good omen that the flight attendant for our
flight from Bangkok to Luang Prabang was holding up a copy of
Henry David Thoreau's "Walden" as we got on the plane.
This was going to be an enlightening place, I thought.
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The
flight from Bangkok was about an hour and a half to Luang Prabang,
saving us many valuable hours via the land route. Unfortunately,
we only had a week to spend here.
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Steve and I
were immediately struck by how soft spoken the people of Laos
are. Normally cab drivers are among the most aggressive you'll
find in any country, but at the Luang Prabang airport, our cab
driver quietly asked "where would you like to go?".
Without really thinking or practicing my pronunciation of our
new destination, I replied "Wong Trabong". Steve pointed
out that this was about like stepping out of National Airport
in our nation's capitol and saying "take me to Mashington,
CD".
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The buddhist
monks in Laos always seemed to have an umbrella with them at
all times either for shelter from rain or shade.
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As we crossed
the bridge into Luang Prabang, I stared at this fellow on the
motorcycle in his communist uniform. Not sure what it is about
that color, but nothing quite says "commie" like that
particular shade of olive. But in Laos, even the communist officials
were friendly and welcoming even if sometimes they were hard
to understand. Maybe they they wanted to impress us capitalist
softies?
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Steve
and I based our Luang Prabang adventures from the Vanvisa Guest
House and antique shop. We were impressed with the various Laotian
relics on display on the walls and in corners. But I think we
were most impressed by this antique Apple Macintosh computer
perched on its mahogany desk waiting for someone to stop by
to play "Where in the World is Carmen San Diego?".
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Like I said,
the Vanvisa Guest House had some interesting antiques stashed
in the corners.
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For
$5 a night, we felt like we weren't doing too bad with this
room that had nice mahogany floors and a good breeze from outside
being circulated by the ceiling fan. The Vanvisa Guest House
feels a lot like staying at somebody's house, which I think
it pretty much is.
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Breakfast
at the Vanvisa was a little bit pricey at $1.50, but definitely
worth it.
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Luang
Prabang is one of the best maintained cities I've ever seen
in Southeast Asia or anywhere else. The buildings fronting the
road that runs along the Mekong River are freshly painted and
look inviting. Even the drains on the streets are lined with
brick and spotlessly clean. I think the people take a lot of
pride in being listed as a World Heritage site by the U.N..
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Fresh
produce was on sale all over Luang Prabang, we passed these
ladies lugging some baskets full of greens for sale.
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There
aren't many cars in Luang Prabang, so many people get around
on an old fashioned bicycle.
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Even
when it's raining they will ride their trusty bikes and just
hold an umbrella in one hand to keep the rain at bay.
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This
fellow didn't need an umbrella, and might have pinched this
bike from a troop of girl scouts.
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Like
Thailand, Laos also has tuk tuks buzzing around its streets..
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The
tuk tuks in Laos might be a little less fancy than the ones
you'll find in Bangkok, but they seem a little safer.
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Luang
Prabang is also known as the city of elephants, although I think
this might have been the only one I saw in the city.
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But
this little fellow tugging on the lanyard to my camera seemed
to be asking that Luang Prabang be renamed the "City of
Monkeys".
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The
little monkey turned out to be somebody's pet, although I don't
think monkeys are really known as good pets--especially this
species.
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This
pepper on the sidewalk must have fallen from someone's basket.
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Steve
and I tried a few pieces of this fried french bread. It was
really chewy (maybe from being fried), but it was tasty.
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Steve
pointed out that other developing countries should use Luang
Prabang as an example of good tourism development. Shops like
this one sold reasonably priced handmade artwork similar to
what was sold each night at the awesome Luang
Prabang night market.
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I bought one
of these rattan Sepak Takraw balls, but it became pretty beaten
up after three weeks of international travel in my bag. Although
the game originated in Malaysia, it is also popular in Laos,
Thailand, the Philippines and other Southeast Asian countries.
Sepak apparently means "kick" in Malay and Takraw
means "ball" in Thai, so even the name is multinational.
After watching the game being played, and even playing myself
during my Peace Corps training, I would describe it as a cross
between volleyball and hackeysack.
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Steve
and I stopped at a local shop to have a snack of soup and these
green beans with peanut sauce.
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The little
girl near the Vanvisa Guest House must have wondered who the
tall guy standing in the middle of the road was.
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These
peppers were drying in the midday sun near the Vanvisa Guest
House. I took a lot of photos of the brightly colored peppers
in Luang Prabang.
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Well,
here's another photo of some more peppers from Luang Prabang.
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I
haven't figured out what these things are yet, but I thought
they made a good photo.
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Wild
onions are always on sale in Luang Prabang's open air produce
market.
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Frangipani flowers (known
as dok champa in Lao) are common around all
of the buddhist temples
in Luang Prabang and is the national flower of Laos.
(Thanks to Roth Kousol, Chan Southiseng, Vilaythong
Syvilay, and Nick Phonesuthat for the information
about the dok champa flower).
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The Luang Prabang polite cab driver
rule had but one exception: a trip to the waterfalls
outside the city. Practically every ten yards when walking
around the city there seemed to be a fellow sitting
in a tuk tuk hissing "waterfall?" "waterfall?"
"waterfall?" at us. A firm "no"
would usually dislodge the sales pitch, but one afternoon
Steve and I found an affable tuk tuk driver to ferry
us out into the countryside and to the Kwang Xi Waterfall
just outside Luang Prabang. (Click
here to see the photo essay--18 photos) |
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