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Guimaras Mango Festival - May 2004
To reach the
pump boat in time for a noon departure for Guimaras, we had
to catch the 6:00 a.m. bus for a five hour ride over the windy
roads through the mountains separating Negros Occidental from
Negros Oriental.
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As we pulled
out of Dumaguete on the early bus, I snapped this photo of the
sun rising over the water framed by this acacia tree.
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Approximately
two hours into the trip we stopped for a break after a particularly
winding stretch of road. The bus driver had been taking the
turns like an Indy driver, and this basket of fish couldn't
handle the G forces.
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After
a full day on the road by bus, we caught this pump boat to Guimaras
Island (the faint blue line on the horizon). While we waited
for the crew to prepare the boat, the local kids were using
the outriggers of the boat for a diving board.
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Mahjongg is
really popular here, so there is a mad race among the volunteers
to get good fast. Not really, but I think everyone just wants
to try to avoid getting schooled by their host families. Anyways,
when we arrived in Guimaras, the game was already in progress.
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We went to
the fairgrounds for dinner, but I couldn't resist stopping off
to get a fresh mango shake.
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The
next day we entered the "Eat Til You Drop Mango Eating
Bonanza". Despite it's nihilistic title, it was a great
event. I especially appreciated all the thought that went into
this list of 12 rules that were posted for all to see. The entrance
fee was 30 pesos, or about 55¢.
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Everyone began
with one kilo of mangos (about four per plate). From there,
it only went up. I think I ended up eating about 1.3 kilos of
mangoes, which is nearly three pounds!
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Not sure what
the "Eat Til You Drop Mango Eating Bonanza" rules
say about talking on the phone during the event, but it's safe
to say this was probably a pretty one sided conversation.
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After stuffing
ourselves with the famous Guimaras mangoes, we were the guests
of honor at the native dance competition and beauty pageant.
We were seated on the stage with the mayor and other local dignitaries.
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One of the
incredibly complex native dances from the dance competition.
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Sheila arranged
for us to stay at a newly opened hotel in Guimaras.
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After the native
dance competition and lunch, Sheila chartered a boat to take
us to the Jordan Turtle Sanctuary near the town of San Miguel.
We piled on to the pump boat for the short ride out to the sanctuary.
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As we approached
the sanctuary, the boatman thought we might need to lighten
our weight a bit so I went overboard as ballast so we could
clear a sand bar. I hung on to the outrigger as we coasted in
to shore.
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The Jordan
Turtle sanctuary was ringed by volcanic cliffs that formed a
sort of lagoon.
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When we got
off the boat, Sheila's daughter decided to take a short walk
on the beach near the boat.
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Mangrove seeds
preparing to drop from the tree and float away. Mangrove seeds
or propagules are designed to float so they will be
carried away by the current to a new beach where they will hopefully
take root and sprout. Destruction of the coastal mangrove forests
here in the Philippines is responsible for dramatic losses of
coastline and in reduced fish harvests. Mangroves are a critical
rearing habitat for juvenile marine animals.
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This marine turtle had
just been tangled in a fishing net and given to the
resident caretaker of the sanctuary. Believing that
people need to be able to see turtles in a turtle
sanctuary, this fellow is forced to lie in a narrow
concrete chute that does not allow him to even turn
around. We talked briefly about springing a jail break
for the turtles but decided instead to go the legal
route. I've written a letter to the Department of
Natural Resources asking that the turtles be released.
I just got a response from them saying that they are
aware of the situation and are working on it. Hopefully
they get the turtles out before they are too weak
to survive in the wild.
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There was also
a pack of goats who benefited from Rob's helping hand to eat
the low hanging branches of this tree.
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The next morning
Sheila made mango crepes for us. This is a photo of the sliced
mangoes that went into our mango crepes. Incredibly I was still
not sick of eating mangoes yet!
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Sheila
cooked the crepes in a wok over an open fire. I have no idea
how she did it, but they all turned out perfectly.
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Unfortunately the Mango
Festival came to an end and we had to catch the boat
back to the mainland. As it turned out, the jeepney
driver who gave us our information on the boat departures
was way off on the schedule. When we arrived at the
pier, the boats were gone, with none scheduled to
return until 3 in the afternoon (we got to the pier
at 10 a.m.). This local fellow turned out to be an
opportunistic entrepreneur as he watched us deciding
what to do. He offered to take us across to Negros
Oriental on his boat for the exorbitant fee of 300
pesos (about $5.45) each (about what you would pay
for a nice filet mignon dinner back in Dumaguete).
Since we didn't want to miss the bus back to the south,
we reluctantly paid.
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They opened
the cowling of the engine, which revealed this little motor
sitting self consciously in a space clearly designed to hold
more horse power.
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The
gas tank turned out to be a milk jug with a short length of
surgical tubing feeding the diminutive motor.
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With the whole
village watching from the beach, our vessel was launched.
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As we pushed
off the beach, our captain vaulted over the outriggers and into
the boat. Despite the small engine, the boat seemed to be in
good shape and quite seaworthy.
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The
seas were quite calm as we crossed, making it a pleasant trip;
not sure if it was worth 300 pesos though!
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Once back on
the mainland, I again had a five hour bus ride ahead of me.
The mountains separating Negros Occidental from Negros Oriental
are quite steep and from a distance remind me a little of the
rockies in Idaho or southwestern Montana. The agricultural fields
in the valley of the mountains really added to the Idaho feeling
for me.
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This tractor
couldn't keep up with the frenetic pace of the bus driver and
we left him in our dust.
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If
you've ever wondered why dogs like to stick their heads out
the window, you should try it for yourself. When it's hot and
there's no air conditioning within 100 miles, it's pretty refreshing.
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Just a short jeepney ride from Dumaguete
in the mountains separating Negros Oriental from Negros
Occidental there is a 70 foot waterfall called Casaroro
Falls. I went there one afternoon in June to get out
of the city and see what the mountain life had to offer.
After a short hike down a path into a narrow river gorge
and hopping across slippery rocks, we came to the falls
plunging into a sheltered pool. (Click
here to see the photo essay--7 photos) |
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