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El Nido, Palawan - February 2005
The trip to El Nido started
out for us in the very posh pre-flight waiting area
of ITI Airlines. The monkey on the wall watched Preston
curiously while he drank his jet lag cup of coffee.
After all, he had only been in the country for about
5 hours.
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Just a short walk outside
the ITI pre-flight area, the small charter plane warms
up on the runway.
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No concourse ride to hitch
a flight on this jobber, just climb up the small retractable
stairway.
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Inside the plane it is
only one seat on either side of the aisle and you
can even see the pilots in the cockpit in front of
you.
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After about an hour of
flying, we began our descent past El Nido's most visible
landmark: Cadlao Island.
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What a welcome! An oxcart,
five singers and a guitarist were standing at the
edge of the El Nido runway when our plane landed.
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Manila to El Nido in one
hour, I think Preston appreciated skipping the harrowing
ten hour bus ride that was Plan B.
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I think this is the first
dirt runway that I've landed on, but probably not
the last.
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This jeepney provided
a very distinct local brand of curb service for some
of the arriving passengers.
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Departures get coffee,
arrivals get tea. No formal waiting area at the El
Nido airport.
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Baggage claim was also
very informal, just pick your luggage up in the little
hut.
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Before long our tricycle
to El Nido rolled in.
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The tricycle ride was
short, and in no time we were in El Nido and checking
in to our bungalow on the beach. This boat was just
a short walk from where we stayed.
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I like the fact that the
alleys in El Nido aren't filled with trash dumpsters
and stray cats, but are beaches themselves. I think
I may have read somewhere that this is illegal though.
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Preston pointed out the
street signs in El Nido had a New Orleans French Quarter-style
look.
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Fresh fish is pretty much
always on sale in El Nido from street vendors like
these women.
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Fresh produce is also
easy to find here.
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I couldn't resist taking
yet a few more photos of colorful peppers.
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Old Mick, the scary monkey
who lived beside our bungalow is in need of a jail
break, and maybe a pair of monkey boxer shorts.
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Roosters here also have
their internal alarm clocks set to 4 a.m..
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The first place we stayed
in El Nido (for only one night) was guarded by odd
bow-legged dogs like this one. They might have resembled
old West gunslingers if it weren't for the scabies
and limited range of motion.
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We moved down the beach
to the next night to Dara Fernandez cottages where
they didn't have wretched dogs, but they did have
this nice rattan hammock that Preston always snagged
first dibs on.
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They did have a pair of
young cats that usually wanted to be included on our
adventures. We didn't spend much time naming them,
this is a photo of "Gray".
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And here's his friend
"Orange".
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The entrance to Dara Fernandez
is lined with bird of paradise flowers like this one
that is covered in stinging ants.
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A lot of the activity
in El Nido happens around the beach; especially at
sunset a lot of the kids from the town come out to
play by the water. Not a bad place to grow up!
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Sunsets over Cadlao Island
and El Nido bay are usually great.
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The bay is pretty sheltered
so there are only small waves lapping at the shores
of the beach.
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El Nido may be small,
but it does have a bit of a nightlife before the town
electricity generator shuts down at 1 a.m.. Squidos
Restaurant has good food and is a popular hangout
especially for visitors from out of town.
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After dinner at Squidos,
we made a trip to this local hangout where musicians
played some local songs mixed in with the U2 and R.E.M.
covers.
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Gambling sometimes begins
at an early age here.
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Our bungalow at Dara Fernandez
cost about $8 a night and had a nice porch for hanging
out and eating Cloud 9 candy bars.
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Preston manned the kerosene
lantern.
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The next morning Preston
and I had some mango pancakes, though this stray dog
wanted to join in for some eats.
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Here's something you don't
see everyday in the Philippines. Preston had a quarter
left in his pocket from his trip from San Francisco
so he put it down as a tip for the mango pancakes.
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One of the most popular things to
do around El Nido is an island hopping day trip. Kris
and Kristen put together a "best of the best"
island day trip from all the spots they had visited
near El Nido. The highlight for me had to be the incredible
"Secret Beach" that you had to swim through
a narrow crack in the sea wall to get to. It wasn't
even visible from the outside, and I have no idea how
our guide spotted it. (Click
here to see the photo essay--37 photos) |
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