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Dumaguete - Daily Life
Photos
Aside
from the scenic Rizal Boulevard
in Dumaguete, the historic Bell Tower is another famous landmark.
According to the local legend, when pirates came to raid Dumaguete
in the olden days, the people would climb to the top of the
tower to yell out a warning to the sleeping residents (click
here for a close up view of the Bell Tower).
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The
Silliman University campus is lined with expansive acacia trees.
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The
Silliman University Marine Lab is the best in the country and
has top notch staff and facilities. The lab was established
30 years ago, and in 1998 built a new lab facility complete
with a molecular gene sequencer and dive shop. I'm lucky to
be assigned to work here over the next two years (click
here for a close up view of the Marine Lab).
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Looking like a cross between
an asymmetrical stage coach and one of those German
side car motorcycles, the pedi cab (also commonly
called a tricycle) is the dominant form of transportation
in Dumaguete (besides just plain walking). The cab
is basically a handmade coach welded to the frame
of a motorcycle. The driver sits on the motorcycle
to steer the cab, while the passengers sit on the
narrow bench seat inside.The pedi cab designs vary
from town to town, but the Dumaguete design is my
favorite of all that I've seen. Each cab has a handpainted
identification number on it, kind of like a license
plate. The pedi cabs are generally owned by the driver,
and you won't find an organized company that they
all work for. I've read that there are something like
4,000 pedicab drivers in Dumaguete and with all that
competition, most drivers will only earn 100 pesos
per day (less than $2).
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The coach of
the cab is made from welded sheet metal and always have the
distinct personalities of the owner/driver.
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My favorite
feature of the Dumaguete pedi cabs can be summarized in two
words: leg room. In other places that I've visited around the
Philippines, getting in and out of the cabs can be a contortionist
act of claustrophobia...
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...like this!
This pedi cab is packed to the gills and even has two guys sitting
on the seat behind the driver. This is the kind of ride that
will have you counting down the minutes, and you have to get
out of the cab to pay because it is too cramped to even reach
into your pockets.
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There
are no defined lanes on Perdices Street, and pedi cabs weave
in and around each other while they pick up and drop off passengers.
Most rides within the city limits have a fixed fare of four
pesos (about seven cents), but it is always good to agree on
the fare before you get in to the cab to avoid confrontations
with the drivers.
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Pedi
cabs crowd Perdices Street day and night.
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The
other preferred local form of transportation is the scooter.
Since cars are very expensive and the roads are narrow, not
many people drive them around Dumaguete and instead take pedi
cabs or motorcycles (I ride a regular bicycle). Because there
are so few cars, when it rains, the streets are generally empty.
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Crossing
Perdices Street can be like a Southeast Asian version of Frogger.
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The
pedi cabs will take you out into the countryside, but you'll
have to pay quite a bit more.
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Moving
on from the topic of pedi cabs! Dumaguete has many restaurants
to choose from depending on what you feel like eating. Most
days I will eat lunch in town and cook my dinner at my host
family house to save money. This is a photo of what has probably
turned out to be my favorite lunch...cashew chicken!
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The mountains
that separate Negros Oriental from Negros Occidental rise dramatically
behind Dumaguete. Sometimes if I blur my eyes and ignore the
palm trees, it can feel like I'm in Idaho or Montana (click
here for a close up view of this sunset).
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At
night the pedi cabs buzz along Perdices Street under the neon
sign of Cang's, a local department store.
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This
fresh fruit market on the corner of Perdices St. is busy even
at night.
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No
stoplights here in Dumaguete, so traffic flows freely through
the city in organized chaos.
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A
pedi cab pulls over from the river of headlights to drop off
a passenger.
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There are several venues
for live music in Dumaguete including Hayahay (above
photo) where Enchi plays Visayan reggae every Wednesday
night.
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On special weekends, Hayahay
will put up a big stage and invite Visayan reggae
bands from out of town to take the stage.
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I have even played at
Hayahay myself a few times. This photo is from a two
hour Saturday night show I did in August. It was raining
that night, so not many people came out, but I played
20 songs on the 12 string guitar that Jun Reputana
built for me (click
here to read about Jun's guitar).
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The weather here in Dumaguete
is usually pretty moderate, even during the "rainy"
season, it will just rain in the afternoon, or even
better at night. In September 2004, I noticed this
towering thundercloud at the end of my street. Lightning
was intermittently flashing inside the cloud, lighting
it up with an eerie bluish-white light. I set my camera
up on a tripod with a long exposure, and one of the
frames happened to catch this flash of lightning inside
the cloud.
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Buying fresh food is a part of daily
life in Dumaguete, and the local produce market is the
best spot to pick up the ingredients you need for breakfast
(pamahow), lunch (paniudto), and dinner
(panihapon). The Dumaguete Public Market (in
the local dialect called the tsangi - pronounced
chung-gee) is a hive of haggling, strange smells
and brightly colored fruits and vegetables. (Click
here to see the photo essay--20 photos) |
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