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Bangkok Food, Thailand
- October 2004
From
the moment I stepped out of the cab from the airport, my nose
reminded me that I was back in Bangkok. The unique aroma of
bubbling woks and sizzling stir fry combined with freshly chopped
vegetables and spices made me want to stop to eat every thirty
feet or so.
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If
you don't see anything that looks appetizing at one food stall,
don't worry, there's always another one nearby that probably
has what you're looking for.
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Across
the street from our room at the Taewez Guest house, the market
sold fresh meat and produce and was jammed with delicious eats
from the food carts.
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I
think this was my favorite food stand from this visit to Bangkok.
The ingredients were always fresh and right there in front of
you to see, and the Thai woman who owned the stand made a huge
variety of great authentic dishes. Since there really wasn't
a menu, I would wait around until someone ordered something
that looked good and then asked for one too. She spoke some
English as well, so I was able to ask the name of my favorite
dishes and get her to write down the name (phonetically and
in Thai) so I could order it again.
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Beside
each food stall, small tables were usually set up on the sidewalks
for you to sit down for your meal. Watching what the local folks
ordered was usually the best method of figuring out what to
get for lunch or dinner since there usually wasn't a menu and
I don't speak Thai.
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I
think this may have been my favorite dish when I was in Bangkok,
although I don't know what it was called! Thinly sliced chicken
was sautéed in a wok with spices until golden brown.
I guess this describes almost every chicken dish in the world,
so let's just say that it was a damn good meal!
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Maybe
your already spicy Thai meal didn't have enough heat? No problem,
every food stall provided a deadly dish of freshly chopped spices.
Steve was more gutsy than me and usually added a few of these
green and red peppers to his meals.
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Steve
shown here sampling some of the sweet street eats near the Taewez
Guesthouse.
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We
didn't eat every meal in Bangkok from the street vendors. Steve
recommended the Yonglee Restaurant for its great food, so we
went there for dinner the night that Alex arrived in Bangkok.
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The
Yonglee Restaurant had dishes of spices too.
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We
each chose a dish at the Yonglee Restaurant, and then we all
tried some of each one.
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I
know I said the sautéed chicken dish from the photo above
was my favorite dish in Bangkok, but I had the name of this
one written down by the owner of the food stall on a scrap of
paper I kept in my wallet. It was so spicy that it was barely
edible, but also really tasty. I ended up pulling out that scrap
of paper any time I couldn't figure out what to order while
I was in Thailand.
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Steve
and Alex ordered some Phad Thai for lunch one day.
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Another
spicy concoction from the Bangkok street chefs.
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I
think our love of the Bangkok street food took a turn south
after visiting this dumpling stand...
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When
Alex opened the styrofoam container they came in, an overwhelming
blast of garlic washed over us like a wave...
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Unfortunately,
they didn't taste any better than they smelled, so the dumplings
ended up as an offering to the ravenous school of gurgling fish
that lurked in the Chao Phraya River.
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It
was almost as if the dark shapes lying in wait just beneath
the murky surface could sense (in this case, smell) the dumpling
plummeting from above...
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The
plop of impact rang the dinner bell and the fish quickly glided
like small torpedoes towards the helpless dumpling.
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Within
nanoseconds, the surface of the river resembled a Tickle Me
Elmo toy aisle pileup at Wal-Mart, with the sound of cursing
suburbanites replaced with the sounds of slimy mouths sucking
air and soggy fins slapping the surface of the river.
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Some
fish rode their fellows like a living wave as they were pushed
out of the water while they vainly attempted to snatch a nibble
of the disintegrating dumpling.
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Mmmmm, fish.
After the rotten garlic dumplings and seeing the feeding frenzy
down at the Chao Phraya, we were dreaming of hamburgers and
french fries.
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For
some reason, Bangkok is full of Burger King restaurants, including
this one at the BKK airport. Steve and I had hamburgers for
breakfast here before catching our flight to Luang
Prabang, Laos.
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The
7 Eleven across the street from the Taewez Guesthouse sold these
frozen slices of "Pizza Quik" in shrimp flavor. The
dumplings didn't push us far enough away from Thai food to try
any Pizza Quik though.
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Our
return to the open arms of the Bangkok food stalls would come
from a most unexpected place: a free meal voucher (pronounced
wowcher) from Kentucky Fried Chicken at the Bangkok
airport. Even though we had already eaten Burger King for breakfast,
we figured a free meal is a free meal and proceeded to fill
up on KFC's SE Asian styled vittles. Let's just say it was horrible,
I don't remember what we ordered, but we both felt sick from
the Colonel's cooking.
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Later in the trip we were
able to confront the Colonel for his crimes when we
discovered him hanging out on the street in Bangkok.
Steve and I noticed him sporting his trademark white
dinner jacket when we returned from Laos to meet Alex.
Although his skin and had an unnatural sheen, that
didn't stop Colonel Sanders from smiling genially
while Steve accused him of pushing an overpriced and
inferior product, even going so far as to challenge
Colonel to a duel.
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But Sanders wouldn't budge,
so we used the well-trodden American technique of
speaking with our wallets. I'm really glad I hung
on to that scrap of paper with the name of my favorite
Thai chicken dish on it.
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Even if you're too cool to be a
tourist, a visit to Bangkok wouldn't be the same without
at least a quick stopover to see one of the many historic
buddhist temples (wats). Wat Pho is my favorite because
of the enormous Reclining Buddha housed there--it's
over 150 feet long and 50 feet tall and completely covered
in gold leaf. Just remember to bring shoes and a pair
of long pants, otherwise you will not be allowed inside
the temples. There's no dress code to visit this section
of the website though, so come on in. (Click
here to see the photo essay--25 photos) |
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