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Bangkok: Sights around
the city - October 2004
I
stepped off my flight from Manila to Bangkok and headed, as
many travelers do, to the famous (in my mind, infamous) Khao
San Road. It's kind of a self contained capsule of stylized
western life that was awash with tottering drunk adventure seekers
when I arrived. The only reason I didn't catch the nearest cab
to a quieter part of town was that Steve and I had chosen Khao
San as an easy place to meet up with each other.
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In
defense of Khao San Road, it was a little quieter in the morning,
but still bore some telltale scars from the night before. Nothing
a little incense or a few "Same Same, but Different"
t-shirts from a hawker's stall couldn't cover up though.
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After
Steve and I had some Burger King for lunch, we decided we'd
had enough of Khao San's charms. We headed to a quiet pension
house near the Chao Phraya River named the Taewez Guesthouse.
In place of drunk tourists, we were happy to find quiet buddhist
monks, and the Burger King was replaced with awsome food stalls
selling cheap and excellent Thai food.
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At
the Taewez we ended up renting out the dorm which normally has
four people in it, but because Alex was flying in we talked
them in to letting us have the whole place. This is the view
from the dorm window, we were able to look out on the clattering
tuk tuk's and the buzzing market across the street.
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Our
neighbors across the alleyway could look right into the room
if they really wanted to.
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At
all times of the day, buddhist monks came and went from the
nearby temples (wats) surrounding the Taewez Guesthouse.
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Steve
and I stopped by the Atlanta Hotel, where we stayed in 2001
when we first visited Bangkok. It's a great place to stay, but
was booked pretty much solid and the older, much more distinctive
rooms were full. All they had open was a newer room that looked
like a shabby version of a 60's Holiday Inn. Nothing at all
like the older rooms that make you feel like Humphrey Bogart
might stop by for a gin and tonic.
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At
the top of the budget scale, the Siam City Hotel. Steve and
the rest of his Peace Corps Nepal program stayed here after
their program was evacuated. Once the Peace Corps stopped paying
for the rooms, the Siam City staff were nice enough to let Steve
and the other Nepal PCV's store their baggage while they were
traveling.
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In
addition to the food stalls, the market had all the raw ingredients
for any kind of dish, including ones we didn't want to try.
These turtles aren't for sale as pets.
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It was a little
harder to feel sorry for these eels writhing and slithering
over each other in this bright blue tub.
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This old fellow
seemed to be attempting a jail break, but the shop keeper was
keeping a wary eye on her live inventory.
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These
peppers were sun drying in a small rattan pan. No doubt they
would be used as ingredients for the spicy dishes Thailand is
so famous for.
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You
can find pretty much anything you might want to buy in Bangkok,
including a few that made me wonder how they ended up as products
for sale. This set of Joshua Tree era U2 bowling pins are an
example. I've never seen U2 wearing these black bowling shirts
with the little "U2" logo on them.
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Another one from the "who's
buying this junk?" category: a hat made of old
Sprite cans. not exactly comfortable and dubiously
stylish. We didn't see anyone sporting these around
town or anywhere else for that matter. Photo by
Steve
Iams.
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People
definitely do like to buy the fabrics here though, especially
stuff made of silk.
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You
don't have to walk too far in Bangkok to find some rambutans
or other fresh fruit for sale.
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Judging
by the t-shirts and the visibility of the logo, Bangkok seems
to have adopted Red Bull as its official drink. Not sure what
M-150 is, but it's probably just an imitator!
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There
may be few things more hard on the ears than a diggereedoo jam
session! I guess I'm not really sure what constitutes a good
player, but these guys were producing a droning racket that
seemed to have everyone else mesmerized. I couldn't bring myself
to chip in a tip for them as this woman is in the photo.
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To
get above the diggereedoos and other petty annoyances of Bangkok,
we caught an elevator to the top of one of the taller buildings
in town to watch the sunset.
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The
famous Bangkok pollution made it kind of hard to see much.
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Before
heading back down to the street, Steve, Alex and I went up to
the observation deck of the building. For some reason, they
decided to install a creaking, merry go round style platform
that slowly spun around. Loudspeakers played an ethereal "space"
themed song that sounded sort of like a 1950's futuristic ditty.
And it played constantly on a loop!
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Since
the floor was wobbling and spinning slowly, it was tough to
get a sharp photo of the streets below.
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Maybe
this started out as a clover leaf and became a set of intestines?
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Depending on where you're headed,
Bangkok has more options for getting around than most
cities. A lot of tourists opt for the sputtering tuk
tuks that are featured on brochures and guide books
everywhere. But maybe you don't feel like getting ripped
off or spending an unexpected afternoon shopping for
a new suit because the driver has a side deal with a
shop owner to bring customers in. To escape the infamous
tuk tuks, many people go with one of the red and blue
metered taxis for hassle free transit. Although avoiding
the choking Bangkok traffic can be impossible, so you
may want to catch a ride on the relatively new BTS train.
For a slower pace, you can also try a Chao Phraya River
taxi. No matter what your choice of transportation is,
it's likely to be an adventure in this town.
(Click here
to see the photo essay--25 photos) |
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