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Apo Island - November
2004
Steve
obviously paid attention during dive class the previous week,
he had his gear set up and was testing gauges before anyone
else.
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We
caught the Apo dive shop pump boat over to the marine sanctuary
where we would begin our dive.
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The
marine sanctuary is definitely one of my favorite spots to dive
in the Philippines.
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Once we got underwater,
we found that the current in the sanctuary was much
stronger than we expected, but Steve adapted to the
conditions really quickly.
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Almost immediately
we spotted this highly poisonous sea snake hunting for reef
fish among the corals. Usually they are harmless to people because
their mouths are very small and the poisonous fangs are located
in the back of the mouth making it difficult for them to inflict
a bite. Still better to give them a wide clearance though, because
their venom is among the strongest of all snakes.
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As if on cue,
we found the school of juvenile jacks that lives in the Apo
marine sanctuary swimming ghostlike along the coral wall. These
juvenile fish will stay within the sanctuary until they graduate
to the fishing grounds when they are mature.
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Steve's
last open water certification dives were at Balicasag
marine sanctuary in Bohol which also has a large resident
school of jacks.
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The
clown fish lived in their anemone just below the shadow of the
looming coral wall. If you look closely you can see Steve and
our dive guide swimming in the background.
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I found this
moray eel with bright yellow eyes peering out from beneath a
coral head. Sometimes when I look at this photo, the eel reminds
me a little of a sock puppet.
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Our dive guide
spotted this tiny creature, which is a rare form of seahorse
that lives in the Philippines.
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When
the dive was over, we headed back to Liberty's
to catch the sunset over Negros Oriental.
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Paul's
dive shop is only a short walk from the shore where the dive
boats land in calm weather.
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The
next afternoon Steve and I dove with Mario, Apo Island's Barangay
Captain and divemaster. If Mario's schedule is open, I always
prefer to dive with him because he grew up on Apo and knows
it better than anyone. He also guides with a nice relaxed pace
that allows for photos, and he has an incredible eye for spotting
hard to see critters.
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Steve
had already made several friends at the dive shop in the two
days we had been at Apo, and a few of the sillier ones made
faces at him as he left the shop.
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The
weather was pretty much ideal for our afternoon dive at Apo's
Coconut Point.
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Similar to
my mistake of not covering
my mask when I jumped in from the pump boat after I was first
certified to dive, Steve accidentally forgot to put his fins
on before he jumped in.
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The
fellows on the boat noticed it just before he jumped (note that
Steve does have his hand over his mask unlike me).
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But
the fins weren't a problem at all, he just put them on when
he was in the water.
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The
fish you may encounter at Apo's coconut point can be very large
like this snapper.
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These
four snappers swam together just above the corals on the bottom.
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The
current at the Coconut Point was at times really strong, almost
like being in a river. You can see some suspended particles
in the water stirred up by the powerful deep sea hydraulics.
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When
we stopped for a break at a sandy clearing on the bottom that
was protected from the current, I checked my gauge and it showed
that we were 19 meters below the surface--about 60 feet!
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It was nice
change to get out of the relentless current, so Steve and I
took a rest on the sea floor.
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Not far from
where we stopped to take a break, the school of large jacks
was circling above us.
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Coconut
Point is pretty close to the fishing grounds, and the jacks
we saw here were much bigger than the ones we saw the day before
in the sanctuary.
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These
bigger fish did not group as closely together as the smaller
ones usually will.
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On nearly every
dive I've done at Apo I'll come across a different kind of nudibranch.
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Mario
led us with a relaxed and comfortable pace on this dive.
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Near
the end of the dive, we found this large hawksbill sea turtle
swimming among the corals.
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Mario said
that this turtle would be laying eggs on the Apo beach soon.
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Maybe
because it was an older sea turtle, this one had a lot of algae
growing on the outside of its shell making it harder to see.
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After
swimming with it for a minute or so, the sea turtle cruised
around the corals and disappeared.
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I
have no idea how Mario spotted these tiny dragonfish on the
sea floor.
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Large
parrotfish like this one are important in maintaining the ecological
balance of the reef.
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By
the end of our second dive, Steve was really comfortable with
diving.
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Looking
up as I swam to the surface I snapped this somewhat psychedelic
photo of the Apo Island pump boat.
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The
dive was definitely one of the best I've had at Apo.
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In the first week of January I visited
Apo with Corey and Jason from my Peace Corps group.
We did one dive with Mario, Apo's barangay captain on
Cogon Point. We saw more turtles on this dive than any
other I have ever been on, and one of the shots from
this trip was used for the Apo Island post card livelihood
project. (Click
here to see the photo essay--23 photos) |
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